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CTC 3D printer Filament Slipping in Feeder – No category – Talk Manufacturing | Hubs.3D Printer – Extruder Calibration – 3DMaker Engineering
You can also run levelling print tests which are quick prints that show any levelling issues so you know if your extrusion is good enough or not. Instead of always manually leveling your bed, you can let your 3D printer do the work for you, by implementing the popular BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor from Amazon, which saves a bunch of time and frustration in setting up your 3D printer.
It works on any bed material and several users have described a significant increase in overall print quality and reliability. Being able to trust that your 3D printer is level every time gives you a genuine feeling of confidence in your machine, that is worth every penny.
When the clicking happens in layers past the first few extruded layers, it means your extrusion temperature is too low. The reason this works is because in some cases, higher printer speeds works fine going at simple angles like a straight line, but when it comes to sharp turns and different degrees, your printer can have trouble extruding accurately at higher speeds. Getting a higher quality extruder can definitely help out in this regard.
Now you can either get the genuine Bontech, or the Bondtech clone, you check the the price difference and decide which to go for. Many times, your printer will give you this clicking noise when your nozzle is blocked. When your nozzle is blocked up, the extrusion and pressure builds up which sets off your extruder to start slipping. This can result in the plastic forming a plug, or small blockage on the cold side and can happen at random points throughout the print.
Give your nozzle a good cleaning, maybe even a cold pull if the blockage is bad enough. The solution for the thermal break and bad quality heat sink is to lower your temperature or get a more efficient heat sink. A faulty PTFE tube can easily go unnoticed for a while before you realize it is messing with your prints. Your extruder and gears are constantly working and apply constant pressure to your filament as it gets extruded. While this is happening, your extruder and gears will be biting down on your filament which, over time, can leave dust and debris within these parts.
Make sure you are not breathing in the dust though. The most effective solution here would be taking it apart and giving it a thorough wipe down to make sure you get the offending dust and debris trapped inside.
The type and quality of your filament could also affect this, so try out a few different filament brands and see which one works best for you. This issue happened to a Prusa MK3S user and it resulted in a clicking as well as the idler gear slipping. It would cause under-extrusion and be responsible for many failed prints, but he came up with a great solution. I took the fan and heat sink off and watched as I loaded filament in the left hand block.
It started to load and was pushing out of the hot end then randomly it would stop gripping the filament for a few seconds then start again. Hot end cooling fan installed Both feeders upgraded to the Mk8 tension feeder. Tried sliding cold filament through the throat and it flows easily Tried 4 other filament rolls that have been stored in Vacuum sealed bags with desicant inside.
Tried altering the heat setting from up to in steps of 5c Tried to feed filament on the right nozzle Same problem None of the above have solved the issue so far.
8 Ways How to Fix a Clicking/Slipping Extruder on a 3D Printer – 3D Printerly
However just over 2 weeks ago I started getting a problem in that the filament was no longer extruding. I took the fan and heat sink off and watched as I loaded filament in the left hand block.
It started to load and was pushing out of the hot end then randomly it would stop gripping the filament for a few seconds then start again. Hot end cooling fan installed Both feeders upgraded to the Mk8 tension feeder.
Tried sliding cold filament through the throat and it flows easily Tried 4 other filament rolls that have been stored in Vacuum sealed bags with desicant inside. Tried altering the heat setting from up to in steps of 5c Tried to feed filament on the right nozzle Same problem None of the above have solved the issue so far.
I have taken the nozzle off completely and the fan and heat sink so I can watch what is happening and when I load filament via the menu on the printer it will feed filament without any issues. As soon as I put any throat and nozzle on the printer the problem comes back at all temps tested. I only have a 0. Can any help in either translating the video or does anyone have any experience in installing the mks sbase v1.
